Extracted from STYLE.COM: Riccardo Tisci has won his spurs as the kind of designer whose shows cause mob scenes backstage in Paris. The push-and-shove to congratulate him after his show almost brought down a dividing wall—and to be honest, there's not much of that old-school mania around these days. What triggered it was a collection Tisci described—among flashbulbs and kisses from French celebrities and LVMH executives—as "Western Bondage."
"This is one of the examples showing that the economic situation would affect Fashion industry"
There is a thread of hard-core hip in Paris that is picking up that western theme and turning it in a glam-slam direction that flies in the face of recessionary caution. Christophe Decarnin at Balmain is in that posse, too, and there are parallels in London among grittier designers like Meadham Kirchhoff. At Givenchy, the look came out in full force two-thirds of the way in, when the leggings took over—half-leather chaps, half-jeans, or skintight black Lycra with white leaf appliqués flaming up the sides.
Admittedly, that's the kind of sight that may frighten the horses in a nervous retail period. Yet fashion also needs the young and the brave to stir things up, and anyway, Riccardo Tisci was careful not to go the whole hog here. His route to the American West has been followed gradually, via Mexico, where the gaucho/Catholic references from his much-acclaimed collection of last winter originated. Something of the lace (now shown veiled beneath semi-sheer dresses) and the frothy white shirts of that collection carried over into Spring, the shirts perked up with gold bows and diamanté brooches in the shape of sheriff's badges. As for the bondage? It was mostly left to crisscross openwork back views, which will presumably remain strictly "editorial." No chance that will be the case with the thigh-high cowboy boots, though. Crazed lines will be forming for those overnight, recession or no.
"Here shows the religious and culture factors also affecting Fashion industry"
Extracted from VOGUE:
RICCARDO TISCI is still riding high at the house of Givenchy and today's show mixed his signature rock chick with light-as-air pastels, more than a touch of hardcore dominatrix and a subtle Western influence that made it for Vogue's Kate Phelan: "It was really beautiful," she told us afterwards. "He does that hard punky thing so well with a softer side too, and the Western influence - with crystals like rhinestones that followed the shape of bandana prints - was changed and manipulated so much that it was really subtle. I thought it was amazing."
Natalia Vodianova, with husband Justin Portman in tow, and Patrick Demarchelier in the front row added to the feeling that this was a heavyweight fashion moment about to happen, as if there had been any doubt beforehand. The show began with black silk suits with glittering black Perspex neckties and cut-outs on either side for a flash of flesh, and dresses that draped from one shoulder to the hip. Sexy high-necked jersey dresses had stretchy bandages criss-crossing over the back and gorgeous nude chiffon minis had neon yellow lace under layers, sometimes fringed in triangular Swarovski crystals.
Leather dresses, that followed the seasonal theme of coming with one hem length over another over either a pencil skirt or skinny shorts, came with jersey panels to lighten Tisci's love of Gothic and prevent it becoming all too much for a summer season.
Solid gold bows at the neck had a flash of county sheriff about them, while tuxedo folds on dress fronts hung masculine and feminine in the balance – before thigh-high leather boots, snakeskin bandage tops and layered up denim and leather brought bondage games to mind.
There were embellished white cowl-necked, gold-strapped dresses and arresting panelled tops featuring fierce black and white stripes – for all his themes, Tisci still makes very beautiful clothes – and a finale of stiff-shouldered cloaks in flesh pink worn over white shirts with frothy cravats, the stiff neck bow promoted to pale pink high on the head, had a vaguely droll air of Mrs Dracula.
"He epitomises that cool French look: the skinny skinny black leg, the beautiful blouse, the incredibly cut, well-tailored jacket," added Kate. "It's a look that's very strong and he does it brilliantly."
Colour Distribution:
Colour Scheme: COMPLEMENTARY Colour Scheme
Colour Family:
沒有留言:
發佈留言