2009年4月23日星期四

Givenchy 07 FW Ready-To-Wear Colour Analysis

Givenchy 07 FW Ready-To-Wear Colour Analysis

Extracted from STYLE.COM:

Riffing in a straight forward way on the naval theme that he'd more opaquely alluded to in his Spring Couture show, Riccardo Tisci sent out his most concise and focused ready-to-wear collection yet for Givenchy. All it took, according to his program notes, was a Japanese marine jacket circa the 1920's.
Coats and jackets looked particularly strong. A navy fur with a deep, rich pile was the very essence of opulence. Easier to wear, and sure to sell by the boatload, were the fitted peacoats and blazers, including a few winners with face-framing collars cut to look like oversize ribbons.

Skirts came long and lean and trailing fishtail hems, while black dresses were wrapped asymmetrically about the body. For trousers, Tisci showed two distinct styles: The first was essentially a sailor pant, high-waisted and narrow through the thigh, then flaring dramatically at the ankle; the less said about the droopy leather drawers, the better.

In short, all wasn't perfect. The brass buttons that decorated dresses and coats in Art Deco patterns will, for those who want to wear them beyond the runway, be better in smaller doses. The twisting and pleated pink party frocks seemed out of place among the predominantly black and navy palette. And the white opaque hosiery and glittery heels were styling missteps. But all in all, Tisci has really improved. Good for him.

Extracted from VOGUE:
ALL the nice girls love a sailor and Riccardo Tisci girls on the catwalk tonight had ransacked their favourite nautical figure's ship for brass-buttoned admiral's jackets, spongy plaited ropes to wear as scarves and anchors for chunky gold jewelley. The huge square catwalk set up in the Palais Omnisport in the 12th could have been the deck of one of Nelson's finest and as we approached it and heard the wind whistling and smelled the incense burning, we knew that this wouldn't be an average seaside skedaddle. While the double-breasted jackets and matching high-waisted, wide-legged trousers were tailored to powerful perfection as if women had always ruled the seas, wonderful silk chiffon evening dresses had pleated skirts turned skywards to make halter straps: undulating behind the models as if a tropical mollusk was chasing the ship.
One bronze sequined dress suggested the magic that can be found rusting forgotten in the deep - but Tisci knew not to over do his metaphor and thigh high stiletto boots that laced up the back (some of which turned into trouser-skirt hybrids at the top which weren’t as inspiring), jersey dresses cleverly caught into the waist, bulging furs that made teddy bears of the models and floor length skirts with puddle hems let the clothes, not the story, do the talking. When the nautical theme returned as bold gold embellishments on blue biker jackets like the sun glinting on the water, though, it was too subtle to receive anything other than approval.
Seventies-style trouser suits, in black, navy, grey or Bianca Jagger white, are on their way back with a vengeance, while fisherman’s netting over little black dresses made a trend of the fishnet bodies we saw at Lagerfeld earlier in the day and the net dresses that caught on the shoes of the front row at Giles back in London. Now in his fourth season at the house of Givenchy, Tisci has had a tricky time winning over the press. With this one, the tide has definitely turned.
Colour Distribution:
Apart from the BLACK colour, Tisci also used Navy Blue as his theme colour to represent the NAVY Theme.
Complementary Colour Scheme:Colour Family:

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