ITC 3401

2009年6月29日星期一

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2009年4月24日星期五

FINAL ANALYSIS!!! WOW~~~=]

Here are the summary about factors affecting Riccardo Tisci when he was creating the collection.

Therefore, I classified the above factors into:

Cultural factors: Parisian chic, American West, Gaucho, Mob, Bondage, Rock, French look, Gothic, Surrealism, Romantic
Religious factors: Catholic
Social factors: War (Navy/Warrior women), Military
Ethnic factors: Ethnic geometries, Tribalism, Multiple ethnic elements (Bosnia, India, Africa, and Indonesia)
Travel Experience: South America, America, Mexico, Spain, Paris, France
Designers/Artists: Elsa Schiaparelli, Matthew Barney
Muse: Mariacarla Boscono
Others: Animal sensuality

Apart from the external factors that might affect Riccardo Tisci on his collection, the internal factors, which were the Personality of Tisci also played an important role!!!

Love romanticism and sensuality
Emotional
Like black and white
Aristocratic, but with craziness
Like beautiful things
Melancholic
Do not like printing
Like black leather and matte texture

By studying all those factors and past collections, I forecasted that Riccardo Tisci would use GOTHIC, with ROMANTIC ELEMENTS and CATHOLIC STYLE.

Therefore, here is my colour forecasting to Givenchy 10/11 Summer/Spring Ready-to-wear:

Colour Scheme:

Like his before collection, I forcast Tisci would keep using COMPLEMENTARY COLOUR SCHEME in his collection.

To represent the romantic elements, I think Tisci would use shocking pink to highlight this feeling~

This is the Colour Family:

Like what I said before, Tisci told that he loves Black and White so much, so these two colour definitely would appear in his next collection. Plus the shocking pink, by analysing the colour family that he might use, light green would be his choice. Not only because of the colour scheme he would follow, but also because of the growing influence of people's environmental conscious.

Useful Fashion Websites 2

http://www.millionlooks.com/
http://blogs.glam.com/glamchic/
http://www.trendnista.com/
http://fashioncopious.typepad.com/fashioncopious/
http://www.shinystyle.tv/
http://itsfashionhoney.blogspot.com/
http://missatlaplaya.blogspot.com/

Riccardo Tisci and his MUSE

Why Mariacarla Boscono could become the Muse of Riccardo Tisci?
I was wondering................................

What influence Ricardo Tisci? -> Elsa Schiaparelli (part 2)

Elsa Schiaparelli - Designed clothing

'The Skeleton Dress', Elsa Schiaparelli, 1938. Museum no. T.394-1974.
An Elsa Schiaparelli "Skeleton" dress. Ms. Schiaparelli frequently collaborated with Salvador Dali, Man Ray, Magritte, Alberto Giacometti and Jean Cocteau. This dress would sell in Luba's Coin du Vintage for thousands.
"At Luba there are no stains, no shiny patches. No pulled threads or split seams. Everything hangs in privileged perfection on a padded ecru peau-de-soie hanger." pp.37, To My Dearest Friends.

1938–39
Elsa Schiaparelli (French, born Italy, 1890–1973)
Wool

Cape Apollon de Versailles, 1938. Elsa Schiaparelli. Collection The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum, New York.

"The collars of this tailored coat by Schiaparelli are held together with a large button. Schiaparelli often used novelty buttons in the shape of swinging acrobats, beetles and womens faces."

1.PAUL POIRET (1879-1944)Paul Poiret (1879-1944) “I had fallen in love with this dress years before when I saw it in a textbook. Poiret is the father of modern fashion, and this was his signature piece.”
2. ELSA SCHIAPARELLI (1890-1973)“Elsa was very good friends with Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau. Cocteau made this witty drawing that was translated onto the dress by the embroidery firm Lesage.” 3. CHARLES JAMES(1906-1978)“James's mother came from a prominent Chicago Family, and he began his career as a milliner on State Street. This gown is maed of 25 yards of peau de soie and nylon netting.”
4. YVES SAINT LAURENT for Christian Dior (1936-2008)“This dress is such a departure from everything Christian Dior did. It’s a precursor for the youth quake that happened in the 1960s.”

Evening jacket
1938Elsa Schiaparelli (French, born Italy, 1890–1973)
Deep magenta rayon crepe embroidered with metallic thread and polychrome sequins with plastic insect buttons.

Dinner Suit
1937–1938 Elsa Schiaparelli
Green silk crepe and green silk velvet embroidered with metallic thread and red and pink rhinestones with half dome shaped plastic buttons inset with flowers.

Schiaparelli's dinner jackets changed the outline of women's fashion from soft to hard, from feminine to masculine during the mid- to late 1930s. The basic silhouette, which comprised wide shoulders and a narrow waist, first appeared in her autumn/winter 1931–32 collection entitled "Wooden Soldiers," which was inspired by the Indo-Chinese costumes featured in the 1931 Exposition Coloniale in Paris.

The extended shoulders, achieved through padding, became hugely influential in Hollywood, helped along by international café society darlings like Lady Mendl (Elsie de Wolfe), Mrs. Reginald (Daisy) Fellowes, and the Duchess of Windsor.

During a trip to America, Schiaparelli commented, "In Hollywood, one special item of popularity had preceded me—that of the padded shoulders. I had started them to give women a slimmer waist. They proved the Mecca of the manufacturers. Joan Crawford had adopted them and molded her silhouette on them for years to come. They became emphasized and monstrous. Adrian took them up with overwhelming enthusiasm."

What influence Ricardo Tisci? -> Elsa Schiaparelli (part 1)

Elsa Schiaparelli ->Biography

Elsa Schiaparelli belongs to one of the greatest designers of the 20th century. Her fantastic clothes are still admired today. She was born in Italy (Rome) in 1890. Childhood of Elsa was as bright as she was and sometimes she made her parents’ heads go round. It was a shock when Elsa came to a ball in Paris with material just around her body (it was her vision of a dress), everybody was even more shocked when it started to unravel.

When got married when she was only 18-year-old, she gave birth to a baby and afterwards her husband left her. So, she returned to Paris with a young child. In 1928 Elsa had some luck. She created a black sweater with a white bow at the neck and it was shown in the French VOGUE. This time Schiaparelli was shocked, so she hired a group of Armenian women to knit them.

That is how her business started. She rented a small room and started designing apparel for Golf, tennis, and other kinds of sport. Since that time her things were welcomed and often guests in VOGUE. Schiaparelli took her inspiration in Surrealism. In 1934 was opened her first shop in London.

In her biography, "Shocking Life", Schiaparelli tells of her delight in designing clothing that transformed the ordinary women, as the internationally recognized ones, into notable beauties.