Extracted from STYLE.COM Finally, Riccardo Tisci got up on a runway and did what legions of frustrated editors have been willing him to do for ages: present a collection that put his talent properly and clearly on display for the first time. Not that buyers are disbelievers, or that women haven't run into Tisci's exceptional crisp blouses, sharp jackets, and subtly cut dresses in stores and been pleasantly shocked to find the label inside reads "Givenchy." It's just that until now, something—perhaps trying too hard for concept or atmosphere—has always scuppered the appeal on the catwalk.
This season, Tisci got it all under control, and at just the moment to take advantage of the fact that fashion is turning in the direction of his kind of dark, romantic, faintly goth aesthetic. Those on the hunt for new tailoring—something beyond a predictable blazer—will salivate over his black pantsuits and cropped toreador jackets, and the way he showed them with a hugely wantable variety of frothy blouses, from crisp white cottons to fragile, frilled plissé chiffons. Not to mention the slick black patent wedge boots with their tab-and-Velcro fastenings. Or the singular shiny leather puffer that made urban utility look chic again.
"I've been traveling in South America, and I discovered a romantic sensuality and elegance there I really identified with as a Catholic," said Tisci by way of explanation. The Hispanic (Spanish) influence became more obvious in the black lace and flamenco/matador touches later in the show, but (huge relief) the sense of modernity didn't end up sacrificed on the altar of theme. Where Tisci did ruffles and folkloric wool lace, it was often (and best) in chopped-up abstract appliqués on jackets and coats. Give or take a gold leather bubble dress and a slightly dubious revival of stretch pants, this collection finally shifted Tisci out of the "promising" category into a place where he deserves to be seen as a designer who has come of age.
Extracted from VOGUE:
After three years at the helm of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci's latest collection for the Parisian fashion house seemed bespoke for a Catholic rock chick.
Using plenty of black and gunpowder grey leather, Tisci's collection was sexy and sleek, with skin-tight trousers, high-collar shirts, and classic tailored jackets and coats – albeit it with slightly puffed-up sleeves. The show contained plenty of contrasts – a conservative Victorian white blouse with ruffles was followed by a completely transparent brown chiffon top with only a bit of lace to protect the model's modesty – and Tisci also played with proportions, tucking jodhpur-baggy trousers into socks and boots and fitting a slouchy shirt with a tight corset belt.
The second part of the show saw black accompanied by a muted pastel green, lilac, gold and beige, making it obvious just how much thought and detailing went into the making of each item. Oversized leather jackets with enormous collars worn over pretty chiffon dresses, PVC-looking leggings and dandy frills brought rock onto the catwalk, while rows and rows of gold chains adorned with religious charms and a recurrent theme of golden burning hearts on black tops and dresses made us think of an early Eighties Madonna. As for the accessories, Givenchy brought us Velcro boots with open, pointy toes and wedged heels, along with covetable classic Seventies-style square black leather bags.
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