2009年4月22日星期三

Givenchy 06 FW Ready-To-Wear Colour Analysis

Givenchy 06 FW Ready-To-Wear Colour Analysis






















Extracted from STYLE.COM:
A new season meant a new attitude at Givenchy. Designer Riccardo Tisci got an earful after his spring debut—and he seems to have taken the criticism on board. Gone was that show's hobbling silhouette, unfortunate footwear, and belabored theatrics. In their place was a collection that paid homage to the heritage of Hubert de Givenchy's house without being one-note. It had suits; it had, in red, the color of the moment; it had volume. Tisci even did sporty.
With the rest of the fashion world brooding over somber shades, protective layers, and austerity, you might've expected Tisci to work in that vein—after all, before he took over the reins at Givenchy, what little people knew of him was his way with a cardinal coat and his dark romanticism. Instead, he brought unexpected playfulness to tucked and folded army-green knits, shaggy chubbies, and shiny puffer jackets. And there were ready-for-the-retail-floor little black dresses by the dozen.
Tisci's first six models—all women of color—wore some of those cocktail numbers. There are some who might say that their place in the lineup—why not mix them in with the Russian-blonde brigade?—was a little forced. But it still drove home a point about the modeling business' lack of diversity, or worse, an industry-wide blind spot for anyone who doesn't fit a too-narrow definition of beauty. It's an issue few other designers have seemed willing to address recently. For that, and for a much improved sophomore effort, Tisci deserves kudos.
Extracted from VOGUE:
IN the black carpeted, blacked-out venue of Carreau de Temple the benches, only two rows deep, edged the room in two symmetrical squares. Applause led the hour-late show and soundtrack into its synthesised wail. And with a military drumbeat, Riccardo Tisci went into battle to show his autumn/winter 2006-7 collection for Givenchy.
Liya Kebede turned the sharp corner and started thundering towards us, hair in Heidi plaits twisted tightly over her head and nerdy black spectacles – Clark Kent style –wearing a sculpted bodice and tight skirt, all in black. The cut and darting on black chiffons was like the most minimal of brush strokes, but enough to slice the fabric into angles of perfection in this section. Sculpted cut-away backs, oversized utilitarian breast pockets that juxtaposed on a jacket, a modest cape with triangle slashed out of the front – all of which were worn with stilettos and slim pencil skirts. The sexy secretary had been given a new uniform for combat between the filing cabinets. Naomi Campbell, making her first runway appearance of the week, strutted nerdy shades, Heidi hair and fitted black look, each hand clutching slouchy Givenchy sacks – despite appearing half way into the show, her presence was a sure endorsement of the chic of this new name.
White shirts with red lace panels, rips and ruffles worn with tight jodhpurs, high-waisted pants or pencil skirts. Black chunky ribbed knits curled, puffed and sculpted with innovative effect. The 'doubting Thomas' – this is only Tisci's second collection for the house - had to stop scowling and start admitting they were shopping. The boho boxy jacket, the navy and black panelling of jodhpurs, the soft navy velvet skirt styled with sheer fly-away red chiffon top: this was understated and modern. Jacket shapes more often seen on safari were cut in navy velvet and blacks with khakis - a shot of red sequin in a T-shirt or green sequin in the skirt.
Tisci was in control and driving in a new direction. Knitwear that was ribbed, sculptural and almost cubist, stood out in its ingenuity. The black cobweb to pleated chiffon cocktail dress, or the bold crimson red chiffon pleated party dress (complete with red tights and red sequined shoes), elegance.
The Puffas and new uses of fabric contrasted with the tailored and classic, proving that he is using every inch of the house's resources. The red carpet black chiffon or velvet gowns, closing with his muse Maria Carla in red satin criss-cross almost 'dungaree does floaty' gown, proved to critics that with no frills or fuss but with straight forward runway shows, Tisci is the right choice for the job and - like Ghesquiere has at Balenciaga - will, given time, take Givenchy to the future.
Colour Distribution:
Majority of out fit was presented in Black colour. But Tisci added a warm colour: RED into his collection.

Complementary Colour Scheme:

Like before what I said before, Tisci liked to use complementary colour scheme as his collection theme!
Colour family:

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